Let’s look at the actual working of installation of said law, install a 6-mill poly on the dirt before you lay out rebar or wire mess. The steel being inserted onto the concrete keeps 1 the concrete floor from cracking, separating, shifting, or shrinking 2. It reinforces the floor incase the dirt under the floor settles. Rebar comes 1/2” x 20 feet long and is heave and flops around like a fish out of water. You will have a number of holes in the poly liner before the rebar is laid out and tied together.  If you use wire mesh this comes in rolls of 5 foot wide x 20 inches diameter about 100 foot per roll, when you unroll this little monster it acts like a slinky wanting to recoil the only way to straighten it out is to flip it over and re-bending it by hand. Resolutes at each end of 1 row you have just punchered the poly membrane 10-12 time.
The code says you must take a new piece of poly and over lap the hole by 1’ on all sides no a basement of 22 x 38 (24’ x 40’ House) a minimum of 120 holes. Now its time to pour the concrete (concrete is a mix of sand small rock, portland and water) you can install it 2 ways; wheel barrow it to the location and dump it, or you can pump it in with a large pump truck add $800.00 to the bill. Did you fix all the holes the wheelbarrow made and the guys pouring the floor, well that’s a radon leak.
After the floor has harden up you walk around the floor sealing all joints between the floor and wall and floor and any protrusions through the floor. About 1 –2 years after the house is done because you chose not to install reinforcing in the floor your floor have at least 3 and up to 10 large cracks big enough to put a tooth pick in it. Oh that’s right you laid carpet on the floor you’ll never see the cracks where the radon is getting in the living space and where Johnny and Amber likes to play and sleep on the floor.

Let’s look at the collection and exhaust system. Remember in this collection area there is standing water as well as an electric pump to pump out the ground water. Facts undisputed radon gas is heavier than air. So radon gas builds up in the collection tank it never leaves the tank and the vent pipe because it’s to heavy now the ground water comes into the collection tank what happens to the radon gas it rises and falls according to water level in the collection tank.  In fact the radon gas in the tank will increase in the parts per million making it more toxic I feel bad for the plumber that must change out the sump pump, he has to get down in there to fix the problem.  Note when the radon gas moves up into the exhaust vent, it’s now looking for an easier way out, that crack in the floor has a lot less pressure and a bigger area to expand into.   Solve the problem (the states view point) Just add a fan and blow the radon gas out of the house. The problem is it does matter how small or big the fan is if there is no air coming in to the drainage system you will never blow any air up the pipe, let alone radon gas which is heavier than air. The state say’s all you need is a small fan, may be rounding about 10 minutes per hour. 1st the state don’t have a clue how much air in cubic feet of air per minute or per hour is going to ventilate the radon gas from below the floor to solve the problem.

Let’s say it’s possible to vent this gas out of the house, well you don’t want to see the pipe from the front side of the house, let’s vent it on the back side of the roof, great or is it. On the backside of the house are the following screened, porch, deck, sand box, swing set, and other toys to play with. Radon gas is heavier than air it’s pumped on to your roof and taken away with prevailing winds and if there is no wind it rolls of the roof and into your backyard.  Looking down at your house from the sky we see the following a pipe sticking out of the roof with no cover over it and you can not cover it by law, that means when it rains water goes down the pipe so what it goes into a sump tank if water can go down so can cold air in the winter time, when this happens it will freeze the surface water in the sump tank or the ground in the collection area and if there fan is installed water will be dripping and getting the fan soaking wet. Well we no longer can use a cheap fan we must put in a stainless steel fan with a concealed shaft with a water bypass system in it. ”$” Now to make this system work we must bring in air into the drainage system. We cannot take inside air just for the fact if the power went out the radon gas has an easy way back into the house. We can us outside air it 20 below or greater in the wintertime freezing the sub soil under your floor and leaving the opportunity to heave your footing.
The only air available to you is in the new law that no one has thought about, you must have an exhaust fan run 15-20 minutes per hour. Blow this air under you floor and the radon fan pumps the radon gas filled air out of your house.  Now you are running 2 electric fans and praying the power never goes out.

Or Just excavate and other 24” lower and install an angled concrete slab 4” with rebar cover with epoxy paint than build on top of it for your house the radon gas will come in contact with the lower slab and slide upward to the surface level on what ever side you choose to bring it to the surface

Rules for hiring a contractor:

General Information
1. Does the contractor have a state license to do the type of work needing to be done?
2. Does the contractor have liability insurance? If something goes wrong who will cover your loss.
3.  Does the contractor have worker compensation insurance?
If a person falls or get hurt in any way while on your property (grass, sidewalk, inside your house, etc.) you’re at fault. Unless the contractor has workers comp. insurance.

4. Make Sure All Subcontractors and/or Any Person Coming Onto Your Property Has Legal Workers Compensation and Liability Insurance.
5. Does this person have the brains to pull off this type of job?  Watch out there a lot of cons out there calling them contractors only wanting to separate you from your money.
6. Can he/she prove what is being said in writing; a contract that protects you the Homeowner?
7. A lot of people have go good intentions but no knowledge or life experience to draw from.
8. There are 3 classifications of quality of work
A.  Poor and well below sub standard workmanship
B.  Just Average on workmanship
C.   Excellent work- any worker just above average ends up excelling to excellent static because of the person himself, I’ve seen this time and time again.

9. 2nd Classifications of motives.
A. Money is a good motivator
B. The lack of money is a poor motivation
C. Lack of time for said job or out of on contracts personal bills
D. The only job available this one, actually scores just above average
E. Actually caring for his work and the client.

Now is the contractor your hiring going to hire subcontractor with substandard work or money problems? Remember this your project is to be a work of art not a novel of science fiction.

Awning; With this type of window the operating devices are located at the bottom of the window that makes it easy to operate. These windows are hinged at the top and swing outward. The problem is that the kitchen countertop is 36” tall than the window is about 24-36” tall. IE the top of the window is between 5’to 6’ off the floor so when you are looking out the window at the sink all your eyes are looking at the top of the window jamb, you must duck to look out the window.

Glider; With this type of window the operating devices are located half way up the window that makes this window hard to operate when you lean over the sink and faucet.

Casement; This is a great type of window the operating devices are located at the bottom of the window that makes it easy to operate, also if the wind is coming from the left and you want to bring the air in open the right window and it will hook the wind and bring it into the kitchen.

Double Hung; This is a good looking window but it has a draw back you must on unlock the window, the lock is half way up the center of the window opening it from the bottom is adequate again the sink and faucet is the way.

Hopper; A hopper window is a cool design of a window but it swings and tilts into the room in the swing mode the window can not open the faucet is in the way.

Transom; Having a transom window over the regular kitchen window is great unless you have a ceiling under 9’ again the bottom of the transom and the top of the regular is in your line of sight.

Looking for alternative ways to keep plumbing prices down. One way is to install Wirsbo water supply line instead of copper.

Yes copper is great easy to repair, add on to, or even change the design of plumbing as it is being installed. But the price, its great if you are Bill Gates, or a basketball player in the NBA. But for the rest of us there are alternative types of plumbing supply lines.

The Wirsbo system in some ways better than copper.

When water freezes to ice water expands 10% than when it is a liquid form. When water freezes in a cooper pipe it will split the length pipe to relieve the excess pressure. While on the other hand Wirsbo piping is designed to expand 200% larger than the water volume at 100 PSI meaning that it Wirsbo pipe will not fail.

The two draw backs of using Wirsbo piping new tools and instructions for installation you must learn. 2. Wirsbo unlike copper or Iron pipe doesn’t conduct electricity through it, you will need to run a ground wire back to the electrical panel and find a 2nd grounding location–like one of the following a cast iron well pipe, a 5/8″ or larger rebar which is barried in the concrete foundation of your house.

What is nice about Wirsbo there is less hot or cold transference throw the piping intern bring hotter water to the sinks and showers faster than with metal pipes.

Note:
If you have additional pumps on the circulating hot water line, get an electrician to have these circulation pumps wired together and install an electric timer that can shut these pumps off for a period of 10 minutes out of each hour at the same time.

If you have a single pump, which is often the case, the electrician can tie in a programmable timer for this single pump.

Future Benefit:
A water flow gauge gives the plumber servicing an immediate tool in determining if the circulating pump is working properly thus saving trouble shutting time.

There is no accurate way to tell if a circulating pump is moving enough or too much water short of a water flow indicator.

A secondary benefit that results, if you have a thermostatic mixing valve, you can now determine if that thermostatic mixing is working properly.

Final note:
These preventive maintenance steps will not eliminate hot water circulation line leak(s), however these timers will greatly reduce the erosion effect that is occurring in the copper pipes and thereby minimize the number of service calls required to fix these leaks.

Some cities push the pressure up as high 125PSI to get the water down to the last house on the run.

The reason for the high pressure is because the water pipe in the street is to small to supply all the houses, so by increasing the pressure moves more water.

But even with high pressure shall never deliver enough volume of water for all the houses.

3b. The noise builds up and then quiets. If this happens the water pressure in the pipes is changing. This happens most often when you are on a well. If your pump is cycling on and off a lot you may want to install a larger well tank.

Water coming out of the faucet – is the faucet a newer style in the last 15 years and does it have only 1 lever for adjusting the water and temp.

If so the mixing part of the valve is scratched (scored) allowing water to come to the valve stem and drip off the control handle.

Q. Why is there water leaking out of the lawn faucet, but looks like another devise on the end of the lawn faucet?
A. The piece in between the lawn faucet and the hose is called an anti-siphon devise (one way flow only) keeping the domestic water pure from contamination.

Like when you are fertilizing the flowers with a hose attachment fertilizer and pressure from the house drops and pressure from the hose has more than the houses pressure forcing the hose water back to the house with fertilizer mixed in the water, This devise does not allow any thing back in to the domestic water system.

Q. Why when I turn on the water pipes in the walls radial?
A. You have 1 of 2 problems. The water supply pipes in the wall are not fastened down and/or the incoming water pressure is to high, by putting in and Water hammer doesn’t go along with moving water, so if your sound occurs while water is running, it isn’t water hammer.

Water hammer happens when you turn OFF a water flow suddenly (like a dishwasher, a clothes washer, a toilet or even closing a hand faucet suddenly. Shutting off the water suddenly sends a pressure or shock wave down the water pipe through the water shocking the pipes and creating the ‘hammer’ noise.

These shock waves pass through faster than the speed of sound and can put forth immediate and extreme pressures. Over time, water hammer can damage pipes, valves and eventually weaken pipe joints.

Some newer homes have devices called water hammer arresters (they’re called various things such as air chamber, air cushion, water capacitor, etc.). They are air filled chambers connected to the plumbing that let the pressure wave dissipate harmlessly into a cushion of air.

If your banging has been happening forever you may not have one.In time these arresters become waterlogged (filled with water). To remove the water. Turn off the water to the house at the entry.

Find the lowest faucet in your house—Either in the basement or an outdoor garden hose faucet–open this faucet and then open a few of the indoor faucets at high locations such as upstairs or at a wet bar and let the low faucet drain for 5-10 minutes or until it stops dripping, whichever takes longer. Close all the faucets and turn the main back on.

Q. Why has the volume of water slowed out of the faucet, even though I have the water valves open?
A.Check the screen where the water flows out of the faucet. It unscrews, you shall find a screen and 1 or 2 plastic incerts remove these clean them and reinstall them.

Reality check:

Let’s see — a 30 Minutes hour cycle uses 42-50 Gallons. A dishwasher in 30 Minutes will use 12-18 gallons of water. 1 toilet will take 1.6 gallons of water, a quick short shower 8 minutes with a with a 2 gallon shower head uses 8 gallon of hot water and if you preheat your shower 16 Gallons.

A good shower has a good showerhead that uses 6.5 or more gallons per minute and lasts 12-20 minutes 78.gallons- 130.gallons

In our family showers are first, than the dishwasher, and laundry through the day.

2 person family
2 showers – - 16 G x 2 = 32 G- – Good showerhead 78.G x 2= 156 G
– - – - – - – 1 dishwasher 12 G – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – 12 G
– - – - 1 Wash machine 42 G – - – - – - – - – - – - – - -42 G
Half the water is hot
- – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - 88 gallons /2 =44 – - – - 210/2=105 needed in the first hour at our house, or a 50 Gallon water heater.

Now let’s add kids, and look at your house.

Lets say you had a house built few of years ago Now you have a leak 99.6 % of the plumbers don’t know or have a way to patch, connect or fix these new types of plumbing pipes.

For example the old Standard water supplies are copper plumbing great stuff.

Now they are using CPVC a plastic water line. On the hot water side the maximum temp. Is 16° but if you water heater is set above that the pipes will burst.

The code requires 8′ of copper coming out of the hot ware side of the water heater.

And if the water heater is set at 18° and you are filling up a tub the CPVC will burst from 8′ from water heater to the tub smart move.

Also the max. straight run for CPVC is 40′, when CPVC heat up it expands actually grows in length putting stress on the fittings.

So with hot water and stress on the fittings this rate at the bottom of the list to be used in a house.

-A controversy regarding the use of polybutylene pipe (PB) raises concerns about its reliability and use.

The problem is the pipes often sprout leaks, to the dismay of many Arizonans who have the pipes installed in their homes and now face unwelcomed plumbing bills.

To many homeowners the onslaught of the problem is sudden and unexpected.
A plumber described the situation: “First you hear a bang, then there’s a sudden drop in water pressure.

Water then starts coming from pipes you didn’t know existed, causing soggy floors or holes in ceilings that are destructive and expensive to repair.”

Sufficient numbers of homeowners have shared this unnerving experience to provoke various lawsuits.
Consumer complaints in Texas prompted the largest class action in U.S. history against the manufacturers of PB. This action resulted in a $750 million settlement.

In Arizona, two lawsuits are pending in Maricopa County Superior Court to recover damages from PB manufacturers for Arizona homeowners with PB failure.

One of the cases is a class action suit similar to the one filed in Texas.

Average costs for PB-related home repairs are about $4,000.00.
How many other types of plumbing systems are going to fail?